“I’ve heard that finding a one-of-a-kind reuse kimono is exciting, but I’m worried about making a mistake…” — that feeling makes total sense. Actually, as long as you know where to look, even beginners can shop with confidence. Today, let’s walk through the steps for checking size, stains, and odor together with Iroha.
🌸 Start here (for those in a hurry)
There are three things to check: size (mitake and yuki length), stains (around the collar, cuffs, and hem), and odor (mustiness or mothballs). If you find moth damage or mold, it’s safest to pass on that piece.
First, Check the Size — Will This Kimono Fit You?
The first thing to check when choosing a reuse kimono is size. There are three key measurements to use as your guide:
- Mitake (the kimono’s overall length) — as a rough guide, this should be within about ±5cm of your height
- Yuki (the sleeve length from center-back to wrist) — as a guide, it should be long enough to just cover your wrist
- Sode length (sleeve length) — stretch your arm forward to check the balance of the sleeve length
If you can try it on, stand in front of a mirror and check the overall balance. Kimono can be re-tailored, but major size changes are often difficult, so it’s safest to choose a size that’s as close to your own as possible.
Checking for Stains — Hold It Up to the Light
Stains are easiest to spot in a bright space when you hold the fabric up to the light. These are the areas worth checking especially closely:
| Area | Common stains |
|---|---|
| Collar and cuffs | Stains from sweat or foundation makeup |
| Uwamae (the overlapping front panel) | Stains from food, drinks, or mud splashes |
| Underarm area | Sweat stains; these can be less noticeable when worn |
| Lining | Yellowing from sweat or long-term storage |
Checking for Odor — Bring It Close to Your Nose
Once you have the piece in hand at the shop, bring it close to your nose and check for any musty smell or the smell of mothballs. Mild odors can sometimes be improved through washing or airing out, so if something bothers you, feel free to ask a shop staff member about it.
Warning Signs to Walk Away — Moth Damage and Mold
The following two issues are signs that you should pass on a purchase:
- Moth damage — once holes have formed, they cannot be repaired
- Mold — white or black spots carry the risk of spreading to other kimono
Finding a one-of-a-kind piece is exciting, but if you spot either of these issues, have the courage to walk away, even if it’s disappointing.
In-Store or Online — Which Is Better?
At a physical shop, you can try the kimono on, check for odors, and consult with staff. Online shopping is convenient, but photos alone often can’t fully capture the true color, and returns are often not accepted. For your first piece, it’s best to check it in person at a physical shop if you can.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Can I still wear a kimono with minor stains?
A. Small stains may not be very noticeable. If they bother you, consider consulting a cleaning specialist about stain removal. For more on the difference between full cleaning (maru-arai) and unstitched washing (araihari), see this article.
Q. I’ve heard antique kimono run small. Is that true?
A. Kimono made up through the Showa era were often tailored for smaller frames than people have today, so they may not fit as easily. Trying them on is the surest way to check. For more on the differences between antique and recycled kimono, see this article.
Q. Should I avoid buying from online sites?
A. There’s no need to avoid it, but it’s a good idea to carefully check the return policy and measurement details before purchasing. If you’re unsure, it may help to start by buying from a physical shop.
Summary
- Check three size measurements: mitake, yuki, and sleeve length
- Check for stains by holding the fabric up to the light, looking at the collar, uwamae, underarms, and lining
- Check for odor by bringing the kimono close to your nose to detect mustiness or mothball smell
- It’s safest to pass on any piece with moth damage or mold
If you’re torn between renting and buying a kimono, take a look at Kimono: Is It Better to Rent or Buy? 🌸
You may also find our Guide to Renting, Buying, and Letting Go of Kimono useful, covering everything from acquiring to parting with a kimono.